Review: Sea views and standout sooking at Blackrock Cottage

With stunning, iconic views across Galway Bay, Blackrock Cottage could be forgiven for relying on the scenery to do most of the work. Thankfully, it doesn't.

The food more than matches the spectacular setting, delivering contemporary Irish cuisine sourced from land and sea.

This journo started with the Tandoori Gambas Skewer (€15 ), featuring plump, juicy prawns with a mango and chilli salsa, a coconut and lime raita and a poppadom crumb.

The mango salsa struck an excellent balance, with the sweetness and acidity of the fruit lifted by a restrained hint of chilli giving the dish a clean and fresh finish.

Meanwhile, my colleague in the Advertiser’s Snack Assessment Department opted for the Burrata Salad (€14.50 ), served with blistered heirloom tomatoes, sourdough croute, wild garlic pesto and a citrus dressing.

The creamy burrata contrasted beautifully with the crunch of the croutons, but the pesto was the real revelation.

Wild garlic is in season in spring and early summer, yet anyone who has foraged it knows the leaves lose their freshness almost as quickly as they're picked. They can be frozen, but they do lose some of their flavour in the process.

Somehow, Blackrock Cottage found a way to deliver deliciously fresh wild garlic pesto right at the end of the season. We'd genuinely love to know their secret.

For mains, I chose the Brown Butter Monkfish (€37 ), accompanied by sobrassada butter, crispy polenta, garbanzo peperonata and basil aioli. Monkfish can become dry and unforgiving in careless hands, but this was moist, succulent and expertly cooked.

The basil aioli, a striking shade of vibrant green, brought a welcome herbaceous lift that cut through the richness of the butter and complemented the meaty fish without overwhelming it. The peperonata added sweetness and acidity in equal measure, ensuring every mouthful remained balanced from first bite to last.

Across the table, my colleague opted for the Bucky Beef Rib (€36 ) served with Hasselback potatoes, horseradish crème fraîche, tempura onions and a Buckfast glaze.

The beef itself was incredibly tender and falling off the bone while the glaze was rich, glossy and deeply savoury.

You would never guess, tasting it, that Buckfast was the secret ingredient. The Benedictine monks of Devon were clearly onto something.

Special mention must go to the tempura onions, which elevated the humble onion ring to something approaching haute cuisine. Light, crisp and impossibly delicate, they provided the perfect foil to the richness of the beef.

My colleague’s full-bodied glass of Caldoro Montepulciano d'Abruzzo tied everything together beautifully (unfortunately this journalist was driving and had to abstain - which was prescient as I did actually meet a Garda road-stop later that evening ).

We also shared a portion of Blackrock Cottage's "Boujee Fries" (€4.90 ) which we highly recommend. Rather than conventional chips, they're made from wafer-thin slices of potato stacked together before being cut into chunky rectangles.

The delicate layers create an abundance of crispy surface area, giving each fry a sophisticated yet highly-satisfying mouthfeel.

Slathered with garlic mayonnaise and a generous showering of grated Parmesan, they made for a rather refined and genteel take on a certain garlic-cheese-chip condiment beloved across Ireland.

By this stage we were eyeing the Trio of Irish Cheese — Smoked Gubbeen, St. Tola Ash Log and Young Buck (€12.50 ) — but common sense eventually prevailed.

Defeated by generous portions rather than a lack of temptation, we opted instead to both have the Blackrock Bailey's Affogato (€12 ), which consisted of vanilla ice cream paired with a shot of Baileys, freshly brewed espresso and house biscotti. A fitting finale.

Blackrock Cottage has all the ingredients of a memorable dining experience: a spectacular location, attentive service and food that lets quality ingredients do the talking.

It's a restaurant that's well worth adding to your Galway dining list.

 

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