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Winter has arrived: crisp cool air resides, gusty gales are blowing, and the long dark mornings are beginning to set in. As the nights draw in further and the credit crunch continues, many of us are starting to feel the pinch, particularly where our heating bills are concerned.

I had been for dinner at The West in Barna shortly after it opened and as I have been noticing that the awards were starting to pile up — particularly for the wine list — I decided that another visit was in order. I chose what I thought would be a quiet Wednesday night (it turned out to be packed) and we were seated at a window table. As the views are not part of the attraction the emphasis is on lots of exotic lighting and more candles than would light a cathedral. The décor really suits an evening meal and with winter approaching it is a perfect ambience to detract from the misery outside.